Sewing machine



Feb' 15, 193g M. BUONO 2,108,100

SEWING MACHINE Filed A1ffil 2, '1937 4 sheets 5heet l L 1 at@ is: is

Feb. 15, 1938, M BUONO 2,108,100

SEWING MACHINE Filed' April 2, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 @Maw ATTORNEYS Feb. 15, 1938. M, BUQNQ 2,108,100

SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 ATTORNEYS` Feb. l5,v 1938. M. BuoNo 2,308,199

SEWING MACHINE Filed April 2, 1957 4 She@cs-Sheel'l 4 I NTOR. P13148 f 'Zoo 027/0 f ATTORNEYS Patented Feb. 15, 1938 PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE Mario Buono, Brooklyn, N. Y., assgnor to U. S.

Blind Stitch Machine Corporation, New York.- N. Y., a corporation of New York- Application April z, 1931, s eriaNo. 134,470

13 Claims.

This invention relates to a new and improved sewing machine,- and an improved attachment for a sewing machine.

One of the objects of my invention is to provide an improved attachment which can be applied to well known blind-stitch machines of the type which has a curved needle, which is caused to oscillate, although the inventionv is not limited to any particular type of blind-stitch sewing machine.

Another object of my invention is to provide a machine which will automatically perform the class of work which is known as tacking, so as to eliminate the necessity of the hand labor which has heretofore been employed for this class of work, and to produce an improved tacking.

Another object of my invention is to provide a rib for a blind-stitch sewing machine, said rib having projections of different diameters or heights.

Another object of myv invention is to provide an improved finger, which may be shifted laterally relative to. the forward movement of thev work, so as -to control the action of the rib and to control the stitch.

Another object of my invention is to provide a machinewhich can be regulated for sewing work or cloth of diierent thicknesses, in performing this tacking operation.

Other objects of my invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings which illustrate various preferred embodiments thereof, it being understood that the above statement of the objects of the invention, is intended generally to explain the same, and without limiting it in any manner. l

Fig. 1 ls a side elevation showing the essential parts of a blind-stitch sewing machine of conventional construction, to which the invention has been applied in the form of an attachment.

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of Fig. l.

` Fig. 3 is a plan view on the line 3 3 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is an elevation, on the line 0 4 of Fig. l. v

Fig. 5.is a sectional view, partially in elevation on the une 5 5 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, on the line 6-6 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line 'l-l of Fig. 3.

Figs. 8 and 9 are detail end elevations, largely diagrammatic, and showing the adjustmentA of the means for regulating the stitch and for making allowance for diierent thicknesses of cloth.

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic detail perspective view showing the means for regulating the stitch.

Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating the improved stitch.

Fig. 12 is a view'siinilar to Fig. 5, .and showing a modification of the invention.

Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line l3-l3 of Fig. 12.

Figs. 14 and 15 are detail sectional views, showing the operation of the means for regulating the stitch, in the embodiment of Fig. 12.

' Fig. 14 is a view which is generally similar to Fig. 15, but showing the regulating nger in a different position. Fig. 15 is a sectional view on the line I5-l5 of Fig. 12.

Figs. 16 and 1'7 are diagrammatic detail views, illustrating the regulation of the stitch, in the embodiment shown in Fig. 12.

Fig. 18 is a sectional view, partially in elevation, on the line IB-I of Fig. l2.

Fig. 19 is a sectional view on the line lll-I9 of Fig. 18..

Although the invention is not limited to the manufacture of coats, it will be described in connection with such manufacture, as an example.

In making womens cloth coats, it has been known for many years to provide cloth facings at the separated longitudinal edges of the front walls of the coats.

Each of these facings was Sewed, along its outer edge, to the edge of the front Wall of the body of the coat, by. the usual through-.andthrough stitch. In doing this tacking work, all the blind stitches were caused to pass through the facing'stri'p and the body of the coat. It was necessary to connect each facing strip additionally to the body of the coat, and if this was done by means of an invisible stitch, hand labor was necessary. Y

According to my invention, the facing strip is connected to the body of the coat, inwardly of the edge. of the coat, by blind stitches, so as to provide an improved stitch connection.

Likewise, the work can be done on a machine having my improved attachment, so that cheaper classes of garments will have the same appearance as the more expensive hand-iinished garments.

The improvement can be applied in the form of a simple attachment to blind-stitch sewing machines of Well known and conventional design, so that I have illustrated the conventional parts of a well known type of blind-stitch sewing machine, wlthout going into the construction of any type `of sewing machine in detail.

Referring to Fig. 1, this shows the head l of the machine, and the needle-holder 2, mounted on the usual oscillating shaft 3. The usual curved needle 4 is connected to said needle-holder 2. Fig. 1 also shows the well known looper 5, the looper rod 1, and the yoke 6 for said looper-rod 1. The looper 5 is detachably connected in the well known manner to an extension 1a of the looperrod 1. The yoke 6 is pivotally mounted at'8 in the usual manner.

According to my invention, I provide an improved rib member R, which will be later described in detail. Said improved member R is mounted upon the rib-shaft 9, and said shaft 9 is caused to oscillate in the usual manner. The machine is also provided with the usual rigid plate I0, which is rigidly connected to the head I, by means of the yoke II. This yoke II may be integral with the plate IB.

The machine is also provided with the usual feed dog I2 which is actuated in the usual manner, so as to have the usual four-motion relative to the rigid plate I0. As shown in Fig. 3, the plate I0 is provided with the usual slot Ilia, in which the feed dog I2 can operate.

'Ihe work is generally designated by the reference letter W.

Prior to sewing the Work by means of my improved machine, the body 28 of the coat is sewed along one of its front edges to the facing strip 21, by means of through-and-through stitches S. The facing is then turned in the usual manner so as to conceal the raw seam which has been formed by stitches S. The outer edge portion of facing strip 21 can be connected to the body portion of the coat by means of the conventional basting stitches, close to the line of stitches S.

towards its outer edge, so as to form a top layer 21a of the facing strip.

Part of the work then consists of the single layer of cloth of the body 28, and part of the work consists of three layers of cloth, namely, the body 28, facing strip 21, and the top layer 21a Vof said facing strip. The top layer 21a can be made of any suitable width, but it is preferably much narrower than the remainder of said facing strip. I prefer to make said top layer 21a as narrow as possible.

The auxiliary device shown in Figs. 3 and 4 may be used in assisting the operator to form said top layer 21a in an accurate and even manner.

Figs. 1, 3, and 4 vshow a table 50 which is located in front of the sewing machine. This table 50 may be fixed or it may be vertically adjustable.

Said table 50 supports a laterally adjustable metal gauge plate 5|. Said plate 5I may be supported on top of a bushing 52, which is connected to table 50. As shown in Fig. 3, plate 5I has a transverse slot 53. A clamping screw 54 clamps plate 5I to bushing 52. The lateral slot 53 makes it possible to adjust said plate 5I so as to allow for facings of different widths, and to make it possible to fold a facing along any desired line.

The cloth is fed between the bottom surface of the rigid plate I0 and the usual fingers I4, which yieldably support the work. These fingers I4 are pivotally mounted at I5 to the arms oi' finger-supports 22. The rib R, and certain other essential parts of the device, all of which are located underneath the rigid plate I0, are connected to the housing I6. Said housing I 6 is turnably mounted in the usual manner, so that the machine can be adjusted for cloth of different thicknesses. As shown in Fig. 1, the sewing machine is provided with the usual base IGa, having an upright flange I1. The housing I6 is provided with,the usual spring (not shown). A screw I8 is mounted in the lug I9 of the housing I6, and said screw I8 is provided with the usual lock nut 20. The end of the screw I8 can abut the ange I1, so as to limit the turning of the housing IG, under the force of its associated spring, so that the distance of the rib below the plate I0 can be adjusted. An adjusting screw 2Ia is provided for regulating the force of the spring which is connected to the housing I6.

As shown in Fig. l, the machine also has the usual springs 2|, which are connected to the supports 22 for the fingers I4. These supports 22 are pivotally mounted at 23, and since the ngers I4 are connected turnably at I5 to arms of said supports 22, said fingers I4 can turn relative to said supports 22.

As shown in Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, and 17, the improved rib-member R is provided with j separated ridges 24 and 25, separated by an intermediate portion 26, which has a general concave contour.

As the work W is` fed through the machine, a part of the body 28 of the garment is fed between the underside of a regulating finger 30 or 30a, and a part of the intermediate portion 26 of the improved rib R. This is shown in Figs. 16 and 17. This regulating finger 30 or 30av constitutes a part of the improvement.

'The ridge 25 is of smaller diameter than the ridge 24. As shown in Figs. 8 `and 9 for example, only a single layer of fabric is bent to form a bight, by the ridge 24, and the three superposed layers of the work are supported by ridge 25, when the stitch is formed. While the invention is not limited to the particular class of work illustrated in Figs. 8, 9 and 11, the greater number of layers of the material are preferably fed over the ridge of smaller diameter.

The regulating nger 30 is provided with a lateral arm 3l, which is shown in Fig. 7. Said lateral arm- 3| is movable laterally, without turning, in a guide 32. Saidguide 32 has an angular plate 33, which can be )connected detachably by means of a screw or the flike,I to the upper surface of the plate IU, land which is connected to the box-like guide 32 in any suitablemanner.

The lateral arm 3l of the finger 30 is provided with an integral lug 34. As` shown in Fig. 3 and Fig. I18, said lug 34 can be provided with a tapped bore, and an adjusting screw 35 is located within said tapped bore. The adjusting screw 35 is mounted in a bearing 35a, which is provided in'v an extension of the plate 33. The screw 35 is provided with a knurledlhead 36. A spring 31, which is connected to the extension of the plate 33, holdsthel knurled head 35 yieldably in position.

Hence, by operating the knurled head 36, the

justed laterally so as to vary the distance between said finger 30, and the ridges 24 and 25.

The adjustment shown in Fig. 9, in which the linger 30 is moved close to the ridge 25, is intended to adjust the machine for sewing thin goods. The position of the finger 30 which is indicated in Fig. 8, shows the position which is suitable for sewing thick goods. It will be noted that the curved needle 4 oscillates. in the usual manner, along a recess 4I of the plate Ill. As shown in Fig. 8, the needle passes through the cloth at the bight 42, which has been formed by means of the ridge 24, so that a blind-stitch is formed which is invisible at either face of the body of the garment. the fold of the facing strip, at the line 43, so as to form a blind-stitch which is invisible at the inner face of the facing strip, when the layer 21a is free to assume its normal position, close to body 28. The lateral distance between bight 42 and theposition of the fold of the facing strip, as indicated by line 43, is regulated by a side face of finger 30, as shown in Figs. 4, 16, and 17. Likewise, and as shown in Fig. 4, the position of the fold of .facing strip 21 is regulated by laterally adjusting the gauge plate 5I.

After this tacking operation has been completed, the natural resilience of the cloth causes the turned or folded portion 21a of the facing strip to turn back to normal position, so that the en-` tire facing strip lies against the body of the coat, and the facing strip 21 is held -to the body 28 of the coat by invisible stitches.

If the machine is adjusted as shown in Fig. 8, in order to sew relatively thick goods, and the same .adjustment is maintained in sewing rela- 4tively thin goods, the stitch will show at the exposed surface of the facing along the line 43, when the work is completed. However, if the finger 3U is shifted closer to the ridge 25, and the fold of the facing strip at line 43 is formed closer to said ridge 25, the stitch is regulated so as to form a blind-stitch along the line 43, because the folded edge of the facing strip intersects the path of movement of the curved needle, at a higher part of said path. so as to form a more shallow stitch. The work passes underneath the finger 30, between the lines 42 and 43, so that one side face of the finger 30 acts as a guide for the feeding of the folded edge of the facing strip.

As shown in Fig. 10, the stitch is formed in advance of the front end of the finger 30, and in advance of the front ends of fingers and 80a, which hold the work down upon said ridges 24 and 25. These fingers 60 and 60a are preferably of concavo-convex contour in cross-section, and

their concave faces hold the work down upon the ridges 24 and 25. As shown in Fig. 4, said fingers 60 and 60a. are respectively provided with bearing portions 1U and 10a which are mounted suitably and turnably on a pivot pin which is connected to extensions of the plate lll. Torsion springs 6| and Bla. of the usual type are provided, so as to urge the fingers 60 and 60a towards the ridges 24 and 25.

While I do not wish to be limited to the specific contour of the parts, the improved contour and `proportioning and association of the parts of the attachment are important for best results, and these details are illustrated in Figs. 12-19 inclusive.

Figs. `14, 15, and 19 show the preferred shape of the finger 30a, which corresponds to the finger 30 shown in Fig. 10. As shown in Figs. 14 and 15, the bottom surface of the finger 30a is bev- The needle also passes throughY elled at 1|, so as to present a suitable and very thin bottom edge. The bottom surface of the nger 30a-is bevelled in the direction of the ridge 24. Likewise, the ridge 24 is formed with a shoulder 24a, so that the ridge 24 has aninner wall or face of substantially annular shape, which is perpendicular to the axis of the rib R. As shown i-n Fig. 15, the bevelled face 1| of the finger `30a is shaped, so that its height in a direction perpendicular to' the axis of the rib, is substantially equal to the height of said inner annular face of the ridge 24, and if said finger 30a is moved to the position shown in Fig. 15, the lines which dene the cross-sections of the bevelled surface 1I 'and the inner annular surface vof the ridge 24 and the shoulder 24a,` substantially form the three sides of a right-angled triangle. Figs. 14 and 15 are substantially according to scale and they show the shape of the rib R and of the finger 30a in full and correct detail, so that they correspond substantially to working drawings of a preferred embodiment.

Figs. 16 and 1'7 also show that the fingers 60 and 60a are of different 1engths,`the finger 60a being longer than the finger 60, as shown in Fig. 13. This allows for the greater thickness of the cloth when several superposed layers of the cloth are fedover the ridge 25.

Fig. 19 also shows that the front edge of the finger 30a is rearwardly inclined, and that the bottom line of the bottom edge of the finger' 30a is of general convex contour. Fig. 19 is also according to scale and represents, in effect, an accurate working drawing of the rib R, the linger 30a, and the finger 60a.

The improved shape of the parts and their improved proportioning, makes it possible to feed the work to the machine without any binding or dragging, when the finger 30a is adjusted laterally, so as to make allowance for different thicknesses of cloth.

The preferred type of machine is a chain stitch machine, although the invention is not limited to the` use of a chain stitch. A lock-stitchmachine could be employed without depa-rtingfrom the invention. If a chain stitch machine is utilized, this pierces the single layer of the work .at the points 42a, and it pierces the folded part rbottom edge of the finger 30a contacts with the top surface of the cloth, intermediate the ridges 42 and 43. Likewise the deep concave shape of the rib between the fingers 24 and 25 prevents the work from binding or dragging between the Likewise the angular shape of the rib 24, which is provided by the shoulder 24a, prevents the work from dragging along the inner edge of said finger 30a and the intermediate ,portion 26 of l the rib.

depending bight 'of the cloth, and the inner surface of the ridge 24.

It will be noted that Fig. 15 illustrates an extreme position of the rib, in order to illustrate the contour of the parts, but that in actual prac-- tice, the extreme position of the linger 30a is better shown in Fig. 16. However, the tapered configuration of the finger 30a prevents the work from being crowded into the angle between the inner annular surface of the rib 24, and the shoulder 24a. This is clearly illustrated in Fig. 16.

I have shown preferred embodiments of my invention, but it is clear that numerous changes and omissions could be made without departing from its spirit, and I do not wish to be limited to the details herein specified, save as stated in the claims.

For example, I do not wish to be limited to a device or method wherein the bight-forming elements 24 and 25 are portions of an integral rib member R.

The rib R shown herein is of the type which does not contact with the work while it is being fed by the feed-dog. Said rib is moved into operative position after the feed has been completed. I do not wish to be limited to this detail.

As shown in Figs. 8 and 9, a bight or fold is formed in the body of the garment by ridge 24, and a much more shallow bight is formed in the body of the coat by ridge 25. 'Ihe folded edge of the facing has no bight, or a very shallow bight is formed therein.

Ihe machine may be used for performing any class `of work.

For convenience, and to define the. invention generically, the body of the garment may be designated as the first piece of cloth, and the facing strip can be designated as the second piece of cloth. That portion of the facing strip which is folded along line 43 may be designated as the fold portion of said strip.

In the preferred method of operation, the efective surface of the rib is lowered so that the feeddog can feed the work forwardly with little or no friction, because the underside of the finger 30 or 30a contacts with the body of the garment, along only a very small area. At this point the cloth of the body of the garment may either be spaced from the portion 26 of the rib, or else the cloth of the body of the garment may make very light Contact with a small part of the bottom edge of the finger 30a and the adjacentsmall part of the intermediate portion 26 of the rib. After the feeding stroke has been completed, the rib is operated so as to raise the cloth relative to the slot Illa of the plate ID, so that the needle can operate as shown in Fig. 8 and in Fig. 9. However, various devices can be used, in addition to the rib described herein, in order to do this class of Work without departing from the invention. In particular, while the ridges 24`and 2 5 are each of uniform radius, I do not wish to be limited to this detail.

As shown in Fig. 1'7, for example, the 'rib is shaped intermediate the ridges 24 and 25, so that the work can hang freely between said ridges 24 and` 25 and without any substantial contact or friction.

For the purposes of the invention, it is to be noted that the work can be defined as hanging freely between said ridges 24 and 25, if the work can be fed forwardly without dragging. Likewise, while the portion 26 of the rib is mainly of concave c ontour (in cross-section) between the ridges 24 and 25, said intermediate portion 26 of the rib has a change in contour adjacent the inner edge of the ridge 24.

The periphery of shoulder 24a is substantially annular. and the transverse elements of said periphery are substantially straight lines or convex in contour.

Whenever I specify a rib in the claims, it is to be understood that I include any bight-forming member.

For convenience, the direction parallel to the direction of movement of the needle 4, when said needle makes its operative stroke, can be designated as the lateral direction.

The members 24 and 25 constitute laterally spaced work supports, which support the work along two laterally spaced lines. When the needle makes its operative stroke, said work supports 24 and 25 are unequally downwardly spaced from the lateral line along which the needle moves in making its operative stroke.

The distance of the member 25 below said lateral line, exceeds the distance of the member 24 below said lateral line, so that three layers of fabric can be supported upon the member 25, while forming blind stitches which pierce thematerial at the laterally spaced lines which are indicated in Fig. 8 by the reference numerals 42 and 43.

Likewise, and as shown in Figs. 2 and 4, the device comprises a plate 5| which is located below the slot in the plate I 0,' and the operative edge of said plate 5| is vertically aligned with said slot in the plate Il), so as to form a bend in the facing 21, the edge of said bend being vertically alined with the slot or opening in the plate I0.

I claim:

1. Mechanism for sewing a second piece of fabric to a first piece of fabric, said mechanism comprising a needle and means for actuating the needle to and fro, said mechanism also comprising means for supporting portions of said pieces of fabric while the second piece of fabric is located above the first piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is folded so as to have two layers located one above the other and above a portion of the first piece of fabric, said mechanism also comprising means for forming a bight in the first piece of fabric and for operating the needle so that said needle forms a blind stitch in said bight portion of the first piece of fabric, said mechanism also having means for supporting the folded portion of the second piece of fabric in the path of the needle which forms said blind stitch and in such relation to the path of said needle as to form a second blind stitch in the folded portion of the second piece of fabric, said mechanism also including means for regulating the lateral distancebetween the bight portion of the first piece of fabric and the folded portion of the second piece of fabric.

2. Mechanism for sewing a second piece of fabric to a, first piece of fabric, said mechanism comprising a needle and means for actuating the needle to and fro, said mechanism comprising means for supporting portions of said pieces of fabric while the second piece of fabric is located above the first piece of fabric and while the second piece of fabric is folded so as to have two layers located one above the other and above a portion of the first piece of fabric, said mechanism also comprising means for forming a bight in the first piece of fabric and for operating the needle so that said needle forms a blind stitch in said bight portion of the first piece of fabric, said mechanism also having means for supporting the folded portion of the second piece of fabric in the path of the needle which forms said blind stitch and in such relation to the path of said needle as to form a second blind stitch in the folded portion of the second piece of fabric, said mechanism also including laterally adjustable means for regulating the lateral -distance between the bight portion of the-first piece of fabric and the folded portion of the second piece of fabric.

3. In a blind stitch sewing mechanism, a rib which is mounted for oscillating movement, said rib having ridges of different radii, the surface of said rib being generally concave intermediate said ridges, and a finger having a portion thereof located in said concave portion and intermediate.

said ridges.

4. In a blind stitch sewing mechanism, a rib which is mounted for 'oscillating movement, said rib having ridges of different radii, the surface of said rib being generally concave intermediate said ridges, and a finger having a portion thereof located in said concave portion and intermediate said ridges, and means adapted to laterally adjust the position of said finger between said ridges.

5. In a blind stitch sewing mechanism, a rib which is mounted for oscillating movement, said rib having ridges of dierent radii, the surface of said rib being generally concave intermediate said ridges, and a finger having a portion thereof located in said concave portion and intermediate said ridges, the edge of said finger which is adjacent said concave portion being suiiiciently thin to prevent any dragging of the work which is fed intermediate said finger and said concave portion.

6. For use in a blind stitch sewing machineQa rib, said rib having laterally spaced ridges of differentl radii, the surface of said rib being concave intermediate said ridges, said intermediate portion of the rib being shaped adjacent the inner edge of the ridge which has the greater radius so as to have a change in curvature adjacent and below the inner edge of said ridge of greater radius.

7. In a blind stitch sewing mechanism, a rib which is mounted for oscillating movement, said rib having ridges of different radii, the surface of said rib being concave intermediate said ridges, and a finger located insaid concave portion and intermediate said ridges, the edge o f said finger which is adjacent said concave portion being sufciently thin to prevent any dragging of the work which is fed intermediate said nger and said concave portion, the ridge of greater radius having an annular surface at its inner edge and a shoulder at said annular surface.

8. For use in a blind stitch sewing machine,

a rib having ridges of different radii, said rib.

having a surface intermediate said ridges whose cross section is concave beginning substantially at the ridge of smaller radius, said intermediate surface having a change in curvature adjacent the inner edge of the ridge of larger radius and up to aline which is inward of said ridge of larger radius, so that the intermediate portion of said rib has a shoulder adjacent to and below 'the inner edge of the ridge of larger radius.

9. For use in a blind stitch sewing machine, a rib having laterally separated ridges of different effective heights when the blind stitch is be-v ing formed, that portion of the rib which is intermediate said ridges being concave and being shaped so that its cross section has a change inv contour adjacent the inner edge of the ridge which has the greater effective height.

10. A blind stitch sewing machine comprising a needle which is mounted for to and fro movement, and laterally spaced means on which the work is supported so that the \work intersects the path of the needle along two laterally spaced lines, the part of said machine which is located intermediate said laterally spaced means being shaped so as to allow the work to hang intermediate said laterally spaced means with insuilcient frictional contact to cause-dragging of the work, and a laterally adjustable finger having a portion thereof -located intermediate and below said laterally spaced means, when the .stitch is being formed. A

11. Mechanism for sewing a second piece of fabric which is folded along a predetermined line to provide two superposed layers of fabric, to a rst piece of fabric which has a portion thereof located below said layers, comprising a needle; mechanism for actuating said needle to-and-fro in an operative stroke and in a return stroke, first supporting means and second supporting means which are laterally spaced from each other and which are located below the path of the needle during said operative stroke, the rst supporting means being shaped and being located to form a bight in the first piece of fabric and to hold said bight laterally spaced from said predetermined line during said operative stroke and in suitable relation to the path of the needle that the needle pierces the material of said bight intermediate the top and bottom surfaces of saidmaterial along a line which is laterally spaced from said predetermined line, the second supporting means being located during said operative stroke to support superposed parts of said first piece of fabric-and of said layers and in suitable relation to theI path of the needle, so that the needle pierces the said layers to form a blind stitch in the second piece of fabric.

12. Mechanism for sewing a second piece of fabricwhich is folded along a predetermined line to provide two superposed layers of fabric, to a first piece of fabric which has a portion thereof located below said layers, comprising a needle, mechanism for actuating said needle to-and-fro in an operative stroke and in a return stroke, first supporting means and second supporting, means which are laterally spaced from each other and which are located below the path of the needle during said operative stroke,. said supporting means being movable up-and-down` towards and away from the path of theneedle, and a foldguide located below the path of the needle and having a longitudinal edge which is substantially aligned with said predetermined line.

13. Sewing mechanism4 comprising a needle which is mounted for movement to-and-fro in an operative stroke and in a return stroke, laterally spaced fabric-supportingv members located below the path of the needle and movable upand-down towards and away from the path of said operative stroke, and a laterally adjustable guide member located between said supporting members and adapted to guide the feed of a folded piece of fabric which is supported upon one of said members.

` MARIO BUONO. 

